Hampstead High Street — the stretch of road locals call Heath Street — runs from Hampstead tube station northward to the edge of the Heath. It is one of the few remaining high streets in London where independent shops, restaurants and cafés outnumber the chains, where the buildings are Georgian rather than glass, and where walking slowly is the correct speed.
The Shape of the Street
The high street begins at the tube station on Heath Street and climbs gently toward the Heath. The steepest and busiest section runs from the station to the junction with Flask Walk and Holly Hill — about 300 metres that contain most of what makes Hampstead commercially distinctive. Above Holly Hill the street becomes quieter, the buildings older, and the Heath begins.
The best approach is to leave the tube, turn right out of the station, and walk slowly northward with no particular agenda. Turn into Flask Walk at the first opportunity, explore the lanes, and return to Heath Street via Holly Hill or Back Lane.
Cafés and Coffee
Hampstead has an unusually high concentration of good independent cafés for a neighbourhood of its size. The best on or near the high street:
- Ginger & White on Perrin's Court — the original Hampstead café, excellent flat whites, genuinely good food, very small, always busy. Arrive before 9:00am on weekends or accept a queue.
- Brew House at Kenwood — strictly speaking at the top of the Heath rather than on the high street, but accessible on foot in 20 minutes and the best café setting in NW3.
- Louis Patisserie on Heath Street — a Hungarian café that has been in the same family since 1963. The cakes are extraordinary. The décor has not changed. Go.
Independent Shops
The high street and its surrounding lanes contain the kind of independent retail that has largely disappeared from London at this price point. Worth noting:
- Daunt Books on Hampstead High Street — one of the finest independent bookshops in London, organised by geography on the ground floor. The Hampstead branch is smaller than the Marylebone flagship but the buying is equally good.
- Flask Walk shops — the pedestrianised lane off Heath Street contains antique dealers, a gallery or two, and several shops that resist easy categorisation. Browse without a list.
- Hampstead Antique & Craft Emporium — a warren of dealers spread across several floors near the tube. Better than it looks from the outside.
Restaurants on and Around the High Street
The restaurant offer on Hampstead's high street has improved significantly over the past decade. The reliable choices:
- Jin Kichi on Heath Street — a Japanese robata grill that has been the best restaurant in Hampstead for thirty years. The skewers are the thing. Book in advance.
- Gail's — the bakery chain that began in Hampstead, on Heath Street. Not an independent, but the quality remains high and the connection to the neighbourhood is genuine.
- The Wells Tavern on Well Walk — technically off the high street but an easy five-minute walk. The best gastropub cooking in Hampstead.
The Everyman Cinema
The Everyman on Holly Bush Vale — accessible via Holly Hill from the high street — is the original luxury cinema, opened in 1933 and the template for the chain that now operates across the UK. The Hampstead branch remains the best: armchairs, good wine list, and a programme that mixes new releases with repertory screenings. Worth planning your visit around what is showing.
The Tube Station and Surroundings
Hampstead tube station itself is worth noting. It is one of the deepest stations in London at 58.5 metres, served by lifts rather than escalators. The lifts are original to the station (1907) and slow. If you are impatient there are 320 steps. The station building on Heath Street, designed by Leslie Green in his characteristic ox-blood faience, is one of the finest surviving examples of early London Underground architecture.
Walking Off the High Street
The high street is the spine of Hampstead but the best of the neighbourhood is in the lanes running off it. From Heath Street, turn into:
- Flask Walk — pedestrianised, lined with independent shops and the Flask pub at the north end. Connects to Well Walk and the Heath beyond.
- Holly Hill — a steep cobbled lane with some of the finest Georgian houses in Hampstead. The Holly Bush pub at the top is unmissable.
- Church Row — London's best-preserved Georgian terrace, running west from Heath Street to St John-at-Hampstead. Constable is buried in the churchyard.
- New End — a quieter street behind the high street containing Burgh House (free museum, excellent café) and some of the oldest residential architecture in Hampstead.
When to Visit
The high street is busiest on Saturday mornings — especially when the Farmers' Market is running on Inverness Street (10:00am–2:00pm) and families from across north London come for brunch and shopping. Sunday afternoons are the most relaxed time to explore. Weekday mornings are the preserve of locals and are the best time to experience Hampstead as a neighbourhood rather than a destination.