Bonoo's Muswell Hill outpost carries the same inventive small-plates philosophy as its Hampstead sibling, colourful, boldly spiced, and entirely worth the trip to N10.
The Food
The menu at Muswell Hill is closely parallel to Hampstead but not identical, the kitchen makes small seasonal and local variations. A few dishes are specific to the N10 branch based on local supplier relationships.
The Signature Dishes
Lamb Seekh Kebab: Minced Herdwick lamb mixed with green chilli, fresh coriander, cumin, and garam masala, moulded onto skewers and cooked in the tandoor. The lamb sourcing is the same as Hampstead; the spice blend is fractionally more assertive in the Muswell Hill version. Served with a mint and yoghurt dip.
Pani Puri Shots: A direct translation of the Mumbai street food experience: crisp puffed semolina shells filled with spiced potato, tamarind water, and fresh herbs, intended to be eaten in a single bite. The shot glass format, the tamarind water served separately in a shot glass for the diner to pour, adds a theatrical element that works well at a group table. This dish cannot be improved on.
Tandoori King Prawn: Large king prawns marinated in yoghurt, garlic, ginger, and Kashmiri chilli (which gives colour without excessive heat), cooked in the tandoor and served with a lime-spiked butter sauce. This is the fish-eater's best option on the menu and the dish most likely to be requested by name on return visits.
Dhal Makhani: The one concession to traditional Indian restaurant format: a slow-cooked black lentil preparation, made overnight in the kitchen, that is the correct accompaniment to most of the tandoor-cooked dishes. Rich, slightly smoky from the open fire that finishes it, and generous enough to share between four alongside other plates.
Seasonal Special: The Muswell Hill kitchen has introduced a seasonal special format that rotates every six weeks. Recent specials have included: a Goan fish curry using sustainable sea bass from a Cornwall fishery (summer), and a slow-braised duck leg with fenugreek and dried plum (winter). The specials are announced on the restaurant's Instagram; regulars monitor this channel.
James Osei, who has lived in Muswell Hill for eight years, made Bonoo his default date restaurant within a month of it opening. "Before Bonoo, my options in N10 were competent but not worth returning to for pleasure," he said. "Bonoo is worth returning to. The pani puri shots, done right, at a table with people you want to impress, that's a moment. You eat them in one bite and then you all look at each other. It's an experience rather than just food."
The Room
The Muswell Hill branch is slightly larger than Hampstead, approximately 60 covers, with a warm room: exposed brick on one wall, pendant lighting, a mix of banquette and freestanding tables. The kitchen is partially visible from the main dining room, and the tandoor's occasional flare is apparent through the service hatch.
The room noise at full Saturday service is higher than Hampstead, partly because the space is larger and the ceiling lower, and partly because the neighbourhood clientele tends toward groups. This is not a problem for table conversation but it is not a quiet dinner venue at weekends.
Midweek evenings are consistently quieter and better for a two-person dinner with unhurried conversation.
Wine and Drinks
The wine list is shorter than Hampstead's but follows the same logic: lighter wines that work with spiced food rather than fighting it. The house white, a dry Alsatian pinot gris, and the house red, a gamay from the Loire, are both well-chosen at reasonable prices (around £28 per bottle, £8 by the glass).
A small cocktail list includes a tamarind margarita and a ginger and cardamom spritz. The mocktail programme has been extended at the Muswell Hill branch compared to Hampstead, responding to local demand: a spiced mango lassi (non-alcoholic, substantial, and genuinely refreshing with the tandoor-cooked dishes) and a rose and saffron sherbet.
When to Go and How to Book
Monday to Wednesday: Walk-in available for groups up to four. Quiet evenings; good for a relaxed dinner without time pressure.
Thursday: Walk-in possible but booking recommended for groups of four or more.
Friday and Saturday: Fully booked most evenings from Thursday of the same week. Book 7-10 days in advance.
Sunday: A longer Sunday lunch service (noon-5pm) offers a different version of the menu with some additional slow-cooked dishes not available midweek. Booking recommended; families welcome.
Online booking via the Bonoo website (shared booking system for both branches). Phone bookings taken during service hours.
Getting to Muswell Hill
Muswell Hill has no Tube station, it is one of London's most significant residential areas without Underground access, which contributes to its self-contained neighbourhood character.
By Bus: Routes W7, 102, 234, and 299 serve Muswell Hill Broadway. From Highgate Tube station (Northern line), bus W7 takes approximately 10 minutes. From Wood Green Tube (Piccadilly line), bus 234 takes 15 minutes.
By Car: Parking on Fortis Green Road and surrounding streets is available most evenings. Muswell Hill has lower parking pressure than Hampstead; arriving by car for a dinner in N10 is realistic.
Cycling: From Hornsey (Overground) or Crouch End, cycling to Muswell Hill is straightforward. The approach from the east is flat; from the south it involves the Muswell Hill climb, which is significant.
Comparing the Two Bonoo Branches
Both branches serve the same philosophical food and maintain comparable quality standards. The differences are primarily atmospheric:
| Hampstead NW3 | Muswell Hill N10 |
|---|
| Room | Smaller, darker | Larger, warmer |
| Atmosphere | Destination, formal(ish) | Local, relaxed |
| Noise at weekends | Moderate | Higher |
| Walk-in availability | Limited | Better midweek |
| Local feel | Mix of locals and visitors | Predominantly local |
| Nearest Heath | Hampstead Heath 5 min | Alexandra Palace Park 10 min |
If you are visiting Hampstead for the Heath or village, the Hampstead branch is the natural choice for dinner. If you live in or are visiting North London's eastern arc, Muswell Hill, Hornsey, Crouch End, Highgate, the N10 branch is better suited and more accessible.
The Neighbourhood Around Bonoo Muswell Hill
Bonoo sits at the quieter end of Fortis Green Road, a 5-minute walk from Muswell Hill Broadway. The immediate neighbourhood has a mix of independent shops and an evening food culture that is small but growing: a craft beer bar opened two doors down in 2024; the Italian restaurant on the opposite corner has been there long enough to be a neighbourhood institution.
Alexandra Palace, the Victorian exhibition hall and park on the hill above Muswell Hill, with its extraordinary views across London, is a 15-minute walk from Bonoo. A walk up to Alexandra Palace in the late afternoon, timing your return for a 7pm booking at Bonoo, is one of the better North London evenings available at no particular cost.
Practical Information:
Address: Fortis Green Road, Muswell Hill, N10
Hours: Monday to Sunday, noon-3pm and 6pm-10:30pm
Average spend: £30-£40 per person including drinks
Dietary requirements: Extensive vegetarian and vegan options; halal meat available on request
Children: Welcome at all sessions; Sunday lunch particularly family-friendly
