North London is a world unto itself — ancient heaths, Georgian villages, Victorian high streets, and a cultural diversity that makes it one of the most interesting parts of any major city. This complete guide covers the best neighbourhoods, green spaces, restaurants, markets, and things to do across Camden, Islington, Hampstead, Highgate, Muswell Hill and beyond.
Hampstead and Hampstead Heath
Hampstead is north London's most celebrated neighbourhood — a Georgian hilltop village that has somehow survived the expansion of the city around it with its essential character intact. The high street, Flask Walk, and the warren of lanes above (Holly Mount, Mount Vernon) retain the domestic scale of the eighteenth century;
the surrounding streets are lined with significant historic houses; and at the edge of the village begins the most remarkable open space in London.
Hampstead Heath is 320 hectares of ancient common land managed by the City of London Corporation and open to the public twenty-four hours a day. It contains woods, meadows, ponds (including three bathing ponds open for swimming throughout summer), the hill of Parliament Hill with its famous panoramic view over the city, and the grounds of Kenwood House — an eighteenth-century mansion with a significant art collection that is free to enter.
The Heath is where north Londoners walk, run, swim, fly kites, and breathe.
Key attractions: the bathing ponds (summer only), Kenwood House and its free art collection, Parliament Hill view, Fenton House (National Trust), Keats House, Freud Museum, the independent shops and restaurants of the high street. Getting there: Hampstead tube (Northern line, zone 2).
Highgate
Highgate sits on the ridge east of Hampstead Heath, separated from its neighbour by a stretch of woodland but sharing the same elevated character — the same sense of being above the city, looking down at it rather than being immersed in it.
The village centre on Highgate High Street is smaller and quieter than Hampstead but has several excellent pubs (The Flask on Highgate West Hill is among the finest traditional pubs in north London), independent coffee shops, and a good Saturday farmers market.
Highgate Cemetery is one of the most extraordinary cemeteries in Britain — a Victorian Gothic tour de force of elaborate tombs, overgrown yew trees, and significant graves including Karl Marx, George Eliot, and Christina Rossetti.
The East Cemetery, where Marx is buried, is freely accessible; the West Cemetery, with its catacombs and Egyptian Avenue, can only be visited on guided tours (book in advance).
Highgate Wood, immediately west of the village, is an ancient woodland managed by the City of London — quieter and less crowded than the Heath, and particularly beautiful in spring and autumn.
Camden
Camden Town is the internationally famous face of north London alternative culture — the place that gave the world a particular strain of British bohemianism, punk, indie music, market culture, and a concentrated density of tattoo parlours, vintage clothing stalls, and piercing studios that has made it a pilgrimage site for a certain kind of visitor for fifty years.
Camden Market, centred on the canal and spreading through the former stables and warehouses, is one of the most visited tourist destinations in London.
Beyond the market, Camden has genuine depth: Roundhouse, the Victorian engine shed converted into one of the best live music venues in London; Regent's Canal towpath, which runs from Little Venice in the west to Victoria Park in the east and provides some of the most pleasant urban walking in the city;
Primrose Hill, immediately north, with its village-in-the-city atmosphere and the best view of the London skyline from the south; and a restaurant and bar scene that runs from cheap and cheerful to surprisingly good.
Getting there: Camden Town tube (Northern line).
Islington
Islington is north London's most professional neighbourhood — polished, well-connected, and culturally confident. Upper Street, the long commercial spine running from Angel tube north to Highbury Corner, contains an extraordinary concentration of restaurants, bars, theatres, and independent shops.
The Almeida Theatre on Almeida Street is one of the best producing theatres in London; the King's Head on Upper Street is one of the oldest pub theatres in the country; Camden Passage (running off Upper Street near Angel) is one of London's best antiques and vintage shopping destinations.
Islington also has the best preserved Victorian residential streets in north London: Canonbury Square (where George Orwell lived briefly in 1945, writing Animal Farm), the streets around Barnsbury and Thornhill Square, and the Milner-Gibson conservation area — all of them Grade II listed, all of them remarkable examples of the confident Victorian residential style that made north London desirable in the first place.
Getting there: Angel or Highbury and Islington tube (Northern line / Victoria line / Overground).
Stoke Newington
Stoke Newington (Stokey to those who live there) is the north London neighbourhood that most consistently turns up in surveys of where Londoners actually want to live — an accolade it receives for its combination of excellent independent shops and restaurants on Church Street, a strong sense of community, good-quality Victorian housing, Clissold Park (one of the best small parks in north London, with a walled garden, deer enclosure, and a good cafe), and convenient access to both the Overground and the A10.
Less polished than Islington, more genuinely local than Hampstead, and considerably more affordable than either.
Church Street on a Saturday morning — the farmers market, the independent cafes and bakeries, the bookshops and record shops — provides the best possible version of London neighbourhood life.
The Turkish and Kurdish restaurants and grocery shops of Stoke Newington High Street are excellent; the weekend market at Abney Park, one of the magnificent Victorian garden cemeteries that ring inner London, is worth combining with a walk through the cemetery itself.
Muswell Hill and Crouch End
Two adjacent north London neighbourhoods that are more similar than different — both characterized by good Victorian residential streets, strong independent retail on their main shopping streets, significant concentrations of families who have moved out of more expensive areas without wanting to leave north London, and the kind of community life (farmers markets, book clubs, independent cinemas) that gives north London its particular character.
Muswell Hill sits on the highest point in the London Borough of Haringey and has views south over the city; its Broadway is the most pleasant shopping street in this part of north London, with a good Saturday farmers market and a concentration of independent cafes and delis.
Alexandra Park and Alexandra Palace to the east provide excellent views, a large park, and a Victorian exhibition hall that now operates as an events and concert venue.
Crouch End, immediately south, has an excellent selection of independent restaurants — this is one of the best areas in north London for eating out without the prices or the tourist crowds of Camden or Islington.
Green Lanes: London's Turkish Corridor
The stretch of Green Lanes between Manor House and Turnpike Lane tube stations is one of the most extraordinary eating destinations in London — a continuous strip of Turkish and Kurdish restaurants, bakeries, grocery shops, and patisseries that constitutes the most authentic Turkish food culture outside Turkey in northern Europe.
The restaurants here are generally inexpensive, the quality high, and the atmosphere far more genuinely local than in the tourist-facing Turkish restaurants of central London. Go for lahmacun, pide, kofte, and the exceptional pastries of the Turkish bakeries (börek, baklava, simit).
Getting Around North London
The Northern line (both the Edgware and the Bank branches) provides the main Underground connection for most of north London, linking Camden, Highgate, Hampstead, and Golders Green to the central network.
The Victoria line serves Highbury and Islington and Finsbury Park. The London Overground network provides lateral connectivity between neighbourhoods — the Gospel Oak to Barking line connects Hampstead Heath, Crouch Hill, and Finsbury Park without going through the centre.
Buses are often the most practical way to travel laterally across north London — the C11, 24, 46, 134, 143, 168, 210, and 263 cover most of the significant destinations in this guide.
Cycling along the Regent's Canal towpath and through the various quiet routes identified in the TfL cycle map is an excellent option for journeys between Camden, Islington, and the eastern neighbourhoods.